Maybe you’ve already heard a thing or two about the curly method, or maybe you’re coming across the term Curly Girl Method for the very first time. We wrote about its core principles — and especially the “miracles” it can do for textured hair — in a recent article on our blog.
Now we’ll explain the full routine, and most importantly the terms CGM (Curly Girl Method) uses. You’ll learn how to do the squish to condish technique properly, how to apply conditioner using praying hands, how to put your hair into a plop, and also when to choose clarifying and when co-wash is enough…
Sounds like a foreign language? Not at all — give it a few minutes and you’ll have the theory down. So tune in with us to the same (curly) wavelength and discover the magic of the Curly Girl Method step by step.
LET’S START: Time for the Final Wash – the First Wash
You have to start somewhere. With CGM, that start is the so-called first wash (final wash), which removes all the “sins” you’ve unknowingly committed against your hair. Yes — we mean silicones, sulfates, parabens, mineral oils, and other ingredients your shampoo is probably hiding, innocently standing on your bathroom shelf.
To get the most out of the Curly Girl Method and begin at point zero with a “blank slate,” a final wash is recommended. The hair products you’ve used so far have almost certainly left buildup and residue on your crown — and you need to free it. How?
The foundation is a deep-cleansing (clarifying) shampoo (and in this one single case, a shampoo with sulfates can — but doesn’t have to (!) — be used). We’ll “forgive” sulfates a little for deep cleansing, mainly because they can help your hair get rid of years of buildup on the surface. That buildup often blocks moisture and nourishment from getting in. Your hair can look dry, dull, and breakable — and you can try for years to bring it back to life.
Just watch out for one thing: the shampoo should not contain silicones. Those are exactly what we want to remove for good.
Step #1: Washing Your Hair the Curly Girl Method Way
If you’ve heard about CGM before, you’ve probably come across the term “washing with conditioner,” or you may have heard that with this method you don’t need shampoo anymore. Well… the truth is somewhere in the middle.
It all depends on your hair and your personal CGM journey. There isn’t one universal routine that works 100% for everyone. Even when it comes to washing, you have two options: co-washing or washing with a gentle low-poo shampoo.
Meet Co-Wash – Washing Your Hair with Conditioner
Co-washing is one of the key ways to care for curls without drying them out, while still creating a healthy, beautiful head of hair. It really does mean you won’t wash with shampoo — surprisingly, you’ll wash with conditioner only. How?
Wet your hair with warm water, or rinse it in the shower so water reaches everywhere and your hair stays fully wet.
Apply your chosen cleansing conditioner (co-wash) to your scalp and gently massage with your fingertips the way you would during regular washing.
Rinse again with warm water to remove all residue.
Low-Poo – A Gentle Shampoo as a Replacement for the Classic One You’re Used To
If you want to follow CGM, you don’t have to give up shampoo forever. You should add a gentle low-poo shampoo to your bathroom routine — one that doesn’t contain harsh sulfates, strong detergents, or parabens.
This shampoo won’t dry out curls or soft waves, and it can add volume that exclusive co-washing might not provide. You may even discover (just like many girls and women do) that co-washing weighs your hair down so much that you decide to use only a gentle shampoo.
You can use a low-poo shampoo according to the instructions — or simply the way you’re used to washing with regular shampoo.
Stuck in a Dead End? Clarifying (Deep Cleansing) Can Save You
Does your hair feel weighed down and dull? If you’ve started CGM (whether you chose co-wash or low-poo) but your hair still feels lifeless, there’s one more option to try: deep cleansing — clarifying.
With curly hair, the most common issue is lack of moisture. But CGM moisture can only truly work on hair that isn’t covered in a heavy layer of minerals and residue that stops it from “breathing.” Simply free your curls with a shampoo meant for deep cleansing.
How often should you clarify?
Again — you’ll have to figure it out for yourself. The deciding factor is mainly your hair porosity. Low-porosity curls or waves often need a cleansing reset about once every two weeks. The higher your porosity, the less you need deep cleansing (once a month is totally fine). You’ll definitely find your sweet spot.
The last option — if you truly feel like you’ve tried everything — is a shampoo with chelating agents. It can deal with hard water full of minerals and drying chlorine.
Step #2: Hydration Time
For hydration, the ideal choice is a conditioner applied through the lengths of your hair using your fingers, a wide-tooth comb, or the praying hands method (you smooth conditioner between your palms and glide them down the hair from both sides, as if you’re praying), with your head tilted down or hair flipped to one side.
Conditioner should be applied to wet hair. Whether you choose a rinse-out conditioner or a leave-in is up to you.
This is also the right moment for detangling. It’s easier with conditioner and wet hair — and you avoid the unwanted frizz that comes from brushing dry. If you struggle with knots, start at the ends and work your way up to the roots.
A rinse-out conditioner should sit for about 5 minutes. Finally, rinse your hair with cool water — it helps “close” the cuticle and lock in the hydration you just gave your hair.
GREAT TIP:
For the best results, try the smart squeezing technique known as squish to condish. You’ll distribute conditioner through every strand and encourage more volume at the same time.
HOW TO:
Cup sections of hair in your palms from the ends (from below) and gently squish upward toward the roots. Make sure your hair stays wet the whole time. If it starts to frizz, you’ll disrupt the curl pattern and head straight toward unwanted frizz again.
A great helper here is two bowls of water: pour water over your hair from one bowl and catch it in the other. Squish a few times, then repeat the pour (3–4 rounds are enough).
If you want to add extra hydration and nourishment, you can use a hair mask (once every two weeks) or an oil at this stage. Oil is especially great for higher-porosity hair with a tendency to break. But beware: apply the mask or oil before the conditioner.
Good advice for fine hair: when applying conditioner or mask, it’s better to squeeze excess water out first and only then apply the product. Also, with fine hair, less is more — masks can weigh it down. Many girls experiment and combine products in different ratios and orders, often with great success. Once again: the best path depends on you.
Step #3: Styling That Supports Waves Without Leaving Frizz
If you’re still keeping a flat iron “just in case” in your bathroom, this is the moment we’ll convince you that you can say goodbye to it for good. The market is full of styling products.
Whether you choose a cream, gel, custard, or mousse, half the success is how you apply it. The already mentioned praying hands technique works perfectly (palms facing each other, glide down the lengths from top to bottom like you’re praying). It won’t disturb the wave pattern and won’t leave your curls frizzy and messy.
Step #4: Drying – Swap the Terry Towel for an Old T-Shirt and a Plop
The final step is drying. According to Curly Girl principles, heat isn’t exactly something curly hair loves. You can use a diffuser with cool or lukewarm air, or you can let your hair air-dry.
But you still need to remove the excess water — otherwise drying would take forever and you’d leave puddles behind like a water sprite. That’s where plopping comes in.
Even though it sounds complicated and dramatic, putting your hair into a plop isn’t rocket science. The most important thing is to replace a terry towel (which only encourages frizz) with an older cotton T-shirt. How?
Spread the T-shirt out and “fold” your wet hair into it by bending forward and gradually rolling the fabric with your hair inside toward your forehead. Then secure it to your head using the sleeves. Keep your hair in the plop for a few minutes and then continue drying in the way that suits you best.
An alternative to an old T-shirt is a special towel made from materials that help curly, wavy, and afro hair keep its shape and especially its hydration.
Break the Gel Cast
If it feels like there’s a coating or a thin shell left on your hair — you’re not imagining it. It’s the leftover styling product that needs to be removed to release soft, fluffy curls. A dried “cast” is normal in the final stage on the way to your flawless curly look.
Now comes the easy (and kind of fun) part: breaking the gel cast. Rub a drop of oil between your palms and use gentle scrunching or “clapping” motions to crack the cast and shake it out of your hair.
See the difference already? Shiny, bouncy waves are being freed from that little “prison.” Exactly what you were aiming for.
How Often Should You Wash Your Hair with the Curly Girl Method?
Maybe you’re wondering how often you should wash your hair to get the results CGM promises. Every hair type is different, so it’s hard to give one universal answer. But in general: not too often. Frequent (daily) washing can irritate the scalp and trigger excess dandruff or oil production.
If you have afro hair (4A–C), start with co-wash once a week or once every 10 days. If your curls are clearly defined and not too fine (3A–C), washing with conditioner once or twice a week may be ideal. Fine hair and waves (2A–C) will likely need more frequent washing.
You can find your hair type in the article Hair Types: Wavy, Curly and Afro Hair. What’s the Difference?
Based on your hair structure, your hair type, and also the time you can dedicate to washing, you’ll figure out how often to wash. Sometimes an effective refresh is enough, and wash day can wait a few more days.
Underlined, counted, let’s sum it up again step by step. What now, once you’ve done your first wash – FINAL WASH?
Nourishing? We hope you’ve just absorbed the maximum amount of information you need to try the Curly Girl Method on your own skin — or rather, your hair.
As we’ve mentioned several times, you will definitely find your own path with the method over time. And maybe CGM won’t suit your hair at all — but gentle products without harmful ingredients, which you can find on our website, will still contribute to healthier hair and a more beautiful look.
We’ll be happy to guide you on this journey with advice and tips on our curly blog.
P.S.: Inspire other women and girls! We’d love it if you shared your experiences and impressions on our Facebook fanpage or on Instagram!
